Brazil's Carnaval

Many theories exist on the origins of Carnival. One theory claims that the word Carnival- in Italian, "Carne Vale" –translating to "Farewell to the Flesh", signified a final foray into the decadent pleasures of the flesh –food, drink, sex- before the beginning 40 days of fasting for Lent. Another etymology of the Latin translation of carnival –carro navale- refers to a boat with wheels that was used in street processions during the spring celebrations of the Greek, the Roman Empire, Teutonic counties and Celtic towns. Upon the boat sat celebrants dressed as gods and surrounded by dancers singing satirical and obscene songs.

The first Carnival celebrations date back to ancient Greece and the days of spring festivals honoring the god of wine, Dionysus. The festival was adopted by the Romans who partook in the elaborate feasts of Bacchanalia and Saturnalia wherein masters and slaves exchanged clothes and reversed roles in a day of drunken festivities. It is believed that the Roman Catholic Church modified the pagan festivals as a prelude celebration to Ash Wednesday. However, churchgoers quickly put their own spin on the celebration and used it as an excuse to indulge with one last hoorah of music, food, alcohol, and sex, and thus bidding farewell to carnal delights.

Carnaval’s antecedent was the Entrudo, first taking placein 1723. The celebration was introduced to the mainland by immigrants from the Portuguese islands of Açores, Madeira and Cabo Verde. Reminiscent of Roman festivals, Brazilian partygoers mimicked Brazil’s African slaves by dressing in oversized clothing. Revelers played pranks such as throwing water, flour, cornstarch, perfumes, etc. at one another. While this tradition remains alive with water balloons tossed about the streets during Carnaval celebrations, Brazil’s Carnaval really started in 1840 wherein the upper class adopted the French custom of holding lavish balls in exclusive locations. At night they turned into the streets donning elaborate costumes and masks while spectators who could not afford the elite parties gathered in the streets. In the 1930s, samba schools began to emerge in Rio and the first parade took place; the Brazilian Carnaval had come into its own.

Brazil’s Carnaval, as we know it today, would not exist without the significant contributions made by African slaves. Dances and music of African roots infused the European tradition with a distantly familiar and infectious spirit. The samba, an African dance brought with the slaves, not only became a national sensation but also a principal characteristic of Brazil’s Carnaval. Another distinguishing trait of the Brazilian Carnaval is the “band” which is similar to the tradition in Africa’s Egungun festival wherein all members of a lineage dress in the same family colors. Many of the costumes used today incorporate feathers which were typical adornments for native headdresses and costumes of the African heritage, symbolizing the human ability to rise above, to spiritually transcend to a higher existence.

Carnaval’s biggest celebration takes place in the seaside city of Rio de Janeiro. The highlight of Rio’s Carnaval is its famous parade that takes place in the Sambadome, in which tens of thousands participate representing various samba schools. Each school presents six to eight elaborately decorated floats and thousands of costumed members who compete with rival schools in the parade’s exciting climax. In addition to the grand carnival parade, balls with many different themes are thrown throughout the city. The gala balls are the most famous and luxurious. Held in the Copacabana Palace, they are attended each year by many celebrities in black ties and costumes. Street festivals are another important aspect of Rio’s Carnaval as street bands (blocos) and revelers join together in their respective suburbs for wonderful celebrations of music and dance. The entire city brims with cheerful revelers, bringing to life the largest party on earth.

The Bahian Carnaval attracts two million people each year. However, the celebration is quite distinct from that of Rio with one of the most pronounced differences being the style of music. Many rhythms are represented in Bahia, such as axé, samba, samba-reggae, etc., all in an exhilarating street carnival celebration. The bandas play on a truck equipped with speakers; dubbed trio-elétrico, it is the Carnival’s main attraction. Trio-elétrico travels the streets of Salvador de Bahia as partygoers follow along in song and dance.

In the northeast region of Brazil, Pernambuco is home to the Galo de Maldrugada (Rooster of Early Hours), a Carnaval parade that takes place on Saturday in downtown Recife. The Carnaval celebration in Pernambuco features over 1,500,000 participants and was named the world’s biggest carnival parade by the Guinness Book of World Records. During the Pernambuco Carnaval, the capital Recife and nearby Olinda are filled with the regional sounds such as frevo and maracatu. No competition takes place amongst these musical groups (as in Rio); instead, participants perform side by side in brilliant parades of mammoth proportions.

With smaller and historic cities like Ouro Preto, Mariana and Diamantina, the Minas Carnaval is primarily patronized by Brazilians. The architecturally baroque cities host many important parades featuring blocos with diverse themes and whimsical styles. While the Minas Gerais Carnaval is predominantly influenced by the Rio de Janeiro Carnaval with its electrifying samba schools, the axé groups from Bahia have begun to partake in the Minas Gerais festivities.

In recent times, the São Paulo Carnaval has gained popularity and its parade is now considered among the most beautiful. While the city streets are calm, the Anhembi Stadium becomes boisterous as the heart of the festival. Samba schools compete in elaborate performances while themed parties are held in popular nightclubs throughout the city.